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As early as 1907, the American heiress Natalie Barney (1875–1972) was gathering like-minded women in her Paris garden for sapphic dances, which look strikingly similar to scenes from Woodstock in 1969 and various «pop» festivals of the late 1960s and early 1970s, showing a comparable lack of inhibition. The «gypsy look» emerged as a common theme among female Bohemians in the early 20th century, with figures such as Dorothy «Dorelia» McNeill (1881–1969), who was the muse, lover, and second wife of painter Augustus John (1878–1961), popularizing this style, known as the «Dorelia look,» characterized by full skirts and bright colors. The late 1960s and 1970s witnessed developments where the previously strict code was discarded, with women increasingly leading the charge against sexualized imagery during that period. The scanty lingerie displayed in prior productions, such as Joan Blondell and Barbara Stanwyck in Night Nurse (1931), was once embraced by many young women in the 1920s as liberating against conventional norms; however, by the early years of the Depression, such displays became largely viewed as undesirable. Women’s sportswear, along with everyday clothing, gradually adopted a more liberated style; however, after the Second World War, Gussie Moran’s appearance in a short skirt at the 1949 Wimbledon Championships—which revealed lace-trimmed panties—led the All England Lawn Tennis and Croquet Club to accuse her of introducing «vulgarity and sin into tennis,» resulting in a long-term rejection of the outfit’s designer, Teddy Tinling.
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The marriage rate among educated women in the United States decreased to 60% between 1870 and 1910, which is 30% lower than the average rate across the nation. By the dawn of the 20th century, a growing number of professional women, particularly in the United States, sought to break free from traditional societal boundaries. As the 1860s advanced, Rossetti grew to symbolize the pinnacle of Bohemianism, as his deviations from societal norms became increasingly bold. The character Mimi in Henri Murger’s Scènes de la vie de Bohème, which inspired Puccini’s famed opera La bohème, remains the quintessential grisette. In poetry, the term «grisette» denoted characteristics of both flirtatiousness and the pursuit of intellectual aspirations.
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